GREEN MAN 2023: A TRANSFORMATIVE WEEKEND IN THE BRECON BEACONS

Green Man, set within the magnificent mountains of the Bannau Brycheiniog National Park, is as wholesome as they come. The festival offers a restorative power, all the while retaining a lineup stacked with the latest and greatest music. This year’s roster also boasts a 50/50 gender split, a feat that far exceeds the current industry standard.

Arriving on Friday morning, dampened and unnerved by the murky skies, we flee straight to Sorry, who’re playing at (our spiritual home for the weekend) Far Out stage. Singer, Asha Lorenz is donned in a diamante-fringed cowboy hat covered by a hoodie, and gifted the crowd with logo adorned umbrellas, bringing practical style to the party. Later, Mercury nominees Jockstrap galvanise the packed tent, entering to the dulcet tones of Nicki Minaj, rolling through both their Greatest Hits and deep cuts. Vocalist and violinist, Georgia Ellery seduces the crowd with vocal prowess and slinking physicality, while producer Taylor Skye creates a thrum that fills this corner of the arena with a fizzing excitement.

After the first of many 'quick dry offs' back at camp we set off into the elements, while Warmduscher’s stomping basslines morphed into Squid’s glittering chaos. For the latter, drummer/vocalist Ollie Judge stood throughout the set, stirring up the throng with his squalling vocals and providing the heartbeat to the group’s unique output, centrifugal to any label of genre. After the immense downpour, a pep talk is needed in order to continue the night and witness shoegaze icons Slowdive. All was worthwhile though; their dreamy set, awash with spacey visuals beaming from within the moody mountains included hits like 'Star Roving' and 'Sugar for the Pill' – to my personal delight. Sparkling with inspiration and drops of rain, Friday is rounded off in the comfort of the Walled Garden stage. Held by the stone border and mirrored by the disco ball, we enjoy a brief stint of relief from the damp, babbling with joy from the day just gone and excitement for what was still to come. 

Photo credit: Marieke Mackleon

Manifestation works swiftly in the Brecon Beacons, as the affirmation that we would "open the tent to sunlight" is fulfilled like magic. It may have worked too well in fact, as some of us have to take a restorative lie down in the shade.. Ever resilient, (with the help of a breakfast burrito and a tinned oat latte), our quest for friends and music is to be resumed by mid-afternoon. Meeting loved ones, new acquaintances, and a surprising number of clip-on animal tails, we catch indie rock enigma Joyeria, before moving through the profusion of family entertainment areas back into the walled garden to be greeted by Americana angel, Etta Marcus. 

Later, the sun beats down on an enthralled crowd, where Obongjayar is playing on the Mountain Stage. His set provides an apt introduction to the Saturday evening – especially when paired with a pint and portion of gyoza. With a focus on creating an inclusive, accessible, and sustainable space, festival owner Fiona Stewart is keen the festival avoid corporate sponsorship.  Welsh food and drinks providers therefore serve a variety of high quality offerings across the site, which gives the festival the added benefit of supporting local vendors.

Marching up the hill, past the helter skelter, we are back at Far Out for Snail Mail; then, like the Grand Old Duke of York’s men, we’re marching right down again to catch brother sister duo ‘uh’, who’s expansive acidic synths and gossamer vocals pierce the evening haze at the pondside Rising stage (ironically sunken between knolls). A true highlight though, is Confidence Man - who are arguably Saturday’s most anticipated set. Enveloping a teeming tent with their cosmic charisma, ridiculous dance routines, and ludicrously infectious electro-pop anthems, Aussie superstars Janet Planet and Sugar Bones capture a feeling that lingers throughout this festival - unbridled passion, unbridled warmth and unbridled fun.

Photo credit: Oliver Chapman

And of course, we mustn’t forget, the eponymous wicker Green Man himself – with whom attendees are able to write handwritten wishes within ahead of Sunday night’s burning. When the music dies down at larger stages, there are many late night options to explore into the early hours, in the company of other shiny happy people with mud slicked boots. A particular honourable mention is due here to the man who is dressed in full pigeon cosplay - we salute you. 

Sunday dawning, we drag our slightly jaded selves up, greeted by a blazing day calling for a few more shady lie downs. We eventually head out for a smashing set from our old friends English Teacher. After traversing the plethora of craft and vintage shops, umming and ahhing about whether we can justify paying for a massage or a gong bath, it’s time for Billy Nomates. Ferociously taking the Far Out stage and drawing us in with sad bangers like “blue bones (deathwish)”, it’s wild and enticing, and a steadfast confirmation of Tor Maries’ lionhearted stamina in the face of recent abuse. 

With the weekend nearly at a close, it's time to add layers and set sights on Amyl and the Sniffers. Kids and adults thrash along to defiant 70s-inspired post punk belters. After a boogie by the pond and on the home stretch, we pass through the Walled Garden to catch some suave Californian psych-rock from Cory Hanson. 

Photo credit: Nici Eberl

Despite tough competition, it is Young Fathers who put on the most climactic show of the weekend; with a stage adorned by torn cloth and lit with the drama of theatre, the group drum life into the crowd, with the default settings becoming either ‘dance’ or ‘hug your mates’. Inspiring awe as we stand arm in arm, Young Fathers’ genre-defying collection of work shines most vitally with their anthemic hit “Geronimo”, creating a feeling of infinity only to be topped by the burning ceremony to follow.

Surrounded by festival-goers, our Green Man shoots in flames, sparks and fireworks filling the pink and orange air, dancing with the ashes of our wishes and hopes. The ceremonial burning is a defining moment of the Green Man experience, which is one of acceptance, hope and joy – all notions carried with us into the night. A precious time, a precious place. Diolch Green Man 2023.